Day 6 Dingbouche -Chhukhung - High Altitude Zombies

This morning Shadow and I split potatoes with a fried egg on top.  It was delicious even without an appetite.  

Our goal today was a 2 hour walk to Chhukhung, a small group of tea house perched on a moraine (old glacier) at 15,500 feet.  Here is the last stop before reaching the base camp for Island Peak, Lhotse, Makkah, and Ama Dablam.  These are some of the tallest peaks in the world.  For us this is the last place to stay before attempting to cross our first pass toward Mt. Everest.  

On the way of town this morning to wild horses came barreling down the main path of town.  Shadow and I heard something behind us and luckily jumped onto the stone wall that lined the path in the nick of time.  Neither of us were expecting that.  They continued passed us running like a bat out of hell and never saw them again.  We did see trekker turning around due to altitude sickness.  It's a reminder for us to listen to your body and take it slow.  We are no longer in elevations for hiking, but elevations for mountaineering.  Patience is everything.  Patience for the weather, patience for your body.  If you are not peeing every 20 minutes, you aren't drinking enough.  Your skin burns fast here.  Sunscreen is not an option, it's a necessity.  The dirt on the paths are as fine as cocoa powder.  Most people where a cover over there mouth and nose while hiking.  The dust can cause a dry cough and that's the last thing you need.  We made it the Chhukhung by lunch, taking it slow and breaking often.  The goal is to keep your heart rate as low as possible and exerting the least amount of energy.  We entered the main room of the lodge to find a room and order lunch.  The room was lined with trekkers.  No one was speaking.  No laughing or games like the last few places.  These people were like zombies.  In front of them were water bottles,thermoses of tea, maps, and bowls of warm food.  It's truly an effort the force yourself to eat and drink.  That is your focus.  It's the only way you can continue the trek.  We order garlic soup for my headache and fried potatoes with yak cheese (technically nak cheese).  This time the garlic soup was made with yak milk and was a creamy white.  I like the green garlic soup better.  I've found the potatoes are easiest to go down and may be a large part of my survival.  

There's a group of about 10 of us hiking this trail without a guide.  We have been looking after each other by reviewing plans, comparing altitude symptoms, and giving advice.  

The clouds have moved in covering the mountains like they normally do this time of day. They bring the wind with them which makes the afternoons cold and damp.  By morning they are gone and the sky is clear.  

Dingbouche 

Window view