Shadow woke around 2am with monkeys running around the tin roof above us. I have earplugs and slept through it. At first we weren't sure if it was monkeys, but a few minutes out of town we saw a family of them eating their breakfast in the trees. Just after first light, someone in town began to play some peaceful Nepalese music. I could wake up everyday like that. We could hear it because of the gap around our room's window.
On the way out of Lukla (8,500ft) this morning a man with a police officer stopped us and said we had to pay and additional $20 each for a permit to leave town. All the hikers were caught off guard by this. It's only for the month October (peak hiking season). Until now, all hikers needed to get the official permit in Kathmandu, which we did. It's hard to get local currency around here so it really cuts into the budget when you are not expecting it. Evidently what the town is doing is illegal, but what choice do you have. I don't blame the town at all. They need the money, just a heads up would be nice.
Leaving Lukla is very special. Everyone that climbs Mt. Everest begins hiking from here and follows the same path. It's also the main trade route, so everything that supplies the small villages outside Lukla also takes this route. It's a Congo-line of hikers, guides, porters, yaks, burrows, dogs, and locals. The trail in some places is so narrow that you much stop to let the animals loaded with supplies pass. It's a constant stream of heavy loads up and empty loads down.
Our hike today climbed through the Khumbu Valley along the large and rapid-filled glacial river of Dudh Koshi. The power of this river was amazing. Small villages with gardens and flowers dot along the milky blue river's edge on either side connected by long swing bridges that stretch high above. Yes, the pack animals also use the bridges too. If I lived here, I'd be flying prayer flags everywhere too.
Signs along way explain what to look for and when to seek higher ground in case of a natural disaster. Like if the water changes colors or if you feel the ground shake.
Our guidebook says to take 3 days to get to Namche Bazaar, the last "town" for this trek. By 11:30am we had made it to our first day, via the guide book and by 1:00pm we were at the end of our second day. I can only assume that spending the Summer in Colorado helped. We made the mistake of continuing on to Namche (10,300ft), another 4 hours. The trail is mostly small boulders mixed with dirt which makes it hard to walk with speed. That and all the Yak traffic jams. The last 4 hours were the hardest of the whole day. The trail was steep but the view across the valley was unbelievable. The photos cannot begin to show the vastness of this place.
I am in awe of the porters that easily carry 100lbs of supplies. They take a strip of a rice bag and attach a rope to the strip. Then put the strip on their forehead and use the rope to wrap the bags of wherever they carry. This may explain why they are so short. I'm joking.
We over did it today. It was all I could do to make it the last mile up (12 miles total). Nanche Bazaar is a terraced village on the side of a steep cliff. Everything must be terraced.
The tea houses work together in recommending where to stay next by giving you their business cards. Show it to the place they recommend, and you get a discount. We found the tea house and had to climb 4 floors to find the reception desk to check in. $2 per night with a basic room, but you are required to buy all meals at the hotel. That's how they make their money. I was exhausted. It's very damp here, which makes it feel colder that it really is and makes it hard to stay warm. We drug ourselves to the room, where I dumped my pack, pulled out my sleeping bag and fell into the bed.
Shadow left to find more money. Surprisingly there are 4 ATMs in the village, although only 1 worked. It was limited to $100 a day withdrawal so we plan to go back tomorrow. Originally we budgeted for $20 a day, but looks like $30 is needed with the food becoming more expensive. By the time he gets back, I am warm. We head up two more flights of stairs to the restaurant. It's warm with a wood stove going. A low ceiling with rugs hung along the walls and placed on the seats. I could stay here all night. We eat fried rice and potato soup with fresh ginger tea and Masala tea (my favorite). It warms our bellies and gives us the calories we desperately need. It's time to rest and take the day off tomorrow before continuing our climb to the next town.
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