It rained most of the night and around 11:30pm I discovered a leak in the tent. Not a big one, but I did have to cover my quilt with a garbage bag to keep my down dry. We woke to no rain, but low clouds. Today was supposed to be a beautiful hike, but not for us. The clouds and wind followed us up the ridge line and down the other side. Occasionally we would catch a glimpse of the rocky peaks and ragged edges. Early in the day we navigated our way through an old village. There must have been 50 small stone squares dug into the ground. Rain began falling again and the temperatures dropped. We continued to walk for warmth. I had read there was a cafe and Eco-cabins for rent close by. In the distance we spot a small hamlet down below. The two of us perked up. Our focus was trying to figure out if they were open. "I see a van!" I said. "I see smoke!" Shadow said. 30 small cabins sat on a flat spot in the mountains. A cow, 3 dogs, 3 horses, and some sheep were hanging around. 2 women stepped out of one wooden structure. They spoke no English and looked like they were straight out of a National Geographic magazine. Hardy strong women with weathered faces. Mix matched clothes and heads covered for warmth. We would soon find that what came out of there warm kitchen was amazing. I made the universal sign for eating. They went to another cabin to get a young man that spoke English. We didn't see a cafe and began to get worried. It was a relief to find we would eat here. These cabins were meant to replicate traditional ways of life. The young man invited us inside. It was warm and dry from a wooden stove. An English couple was inside eating lunch as well. We had a great time talking with them and their guide as we ate. Warm soup, bread, cheese, and stuffed peppers. We were in heaven. After lunch we debated on if we should stay. The weather looked as though it was getting better so we continued down the road. Not 10 minutes after we left it started raining again. We passed another small cabin with animals running around. A group of pigs welcomed us. Closer to the road was a larger house. As we passed Shadow noticed a sign saying DOM (hiker hut). Both of us were surprised at how nice it was and decided to take a peak inside. Super clean and fully furnished. The hut manager greeted us and after seeing the rain increase outside, we decided to stay. The hut master doesn't speak English either, but the three of us made it work. Soon after we arrived, I hear a pig squall and the hut manager headed for the neighbors. "Crap!" I thought. They are killing one of those pigs. When he returned I motioned with my hand across my throat. He laughed. The pigs that greeted us had gotten loose. They were putting them back in their fence.
I helped make dinner which I think the manager enjoyed. Chopped onions, bell pepper, garlic, olive oil, bay leaf, sausage, and his secret ingredient, two big cubes of pork belly. Yum! The soup boiled for a few hours. Shadow read and when the rain stopped I went outside. The neighbor in the small cabin higher on the hill had puppy's running around. I walked up and met the lady at the cabin. 12 puppies from two dogs ran around. They were adorable! She tried to get me to take one. When I said no she asked me inside for some Turkish coffee (Kafa). Shadow was not amused when I came back high on sugar, caffeine, and puppies. The soup we made for dinner was delicious. He served us bread with another local cheese we have had before. It's seems to be a mix of butter with a little bit of a sour cream flavor. Today was a success in the food department. That is until I laid down and got a belly ache.
This evening Shadow and I discussed how much we have enjoyed Montenegro. This is an amazing country. We daydreamed about buying a property in the mountains and building a cabin. Living simply like the locals. A wood stove, solar for power, and spring water. With views like this, what more could you need. Life is slow here and the people are hardy. The manager helped us pronounce the names of the towns Shadow had listed for us to visit. Just before sunset the sky began to clear. What a welcome sign for a good day tomorrow.
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