The next morning we head out for Durmitor National Park. One of 5 national parks in this small country. An old road climbs from Pluzine and the dammed lake above tree line. Unfortunately for me, the road is so steep that tunnels had been dug into the mountain to make switchbacks. I hate walking through tunnels. At the top, the land looked more like Montana. Rolling dry grassy hills with few trees and a couple of small settlements. We stopped at a cafe for a soda and homemade blueberry pastry before continuing on. The trail followed a road for most of the day and we ended at a locked hut deep in the Susice River canyon. Our tent door had an amazing view down the valley.
The next day was full of climbing. We followed the canyon to the end and began our ascent passing a beautiful alpine lake with a hut. Clouds began to cover the blue sky. Rain was coming. We pushed on after a short break to finish the last 2,500 feet of vertical up to the pass. The mountains remind us of the Sierras here. Lunch was on the other side out of the wind. Just above tree line we passed a farmer with his cows near what was left of an old settlement. Stone walls outlined the shapes of small homes huddled together for protection from the weather. What an awesome place to live.
About 3 miles from the town of Zabljak the rain began. We slid into a cafe to find a hot cup of coffee and wifi. A quick internet search led us to City Center Apartments in town. What a treat! The owner host guests for dinner every night at a super cheap price. We had a great time talking with the friendly owner, Rajko, and other guests. The one condition is you must try his father's homemade Rakija (Brandy that is 40%-60% Alcohol). Apple, Plum, or Pear. They all smell good but go down like moonshine. Woohoo! Shadow was forced to drink most of mine. After a few beers at dinner and 3 shots of Rakija which led him on a midnight search aspirin. Rajko's smiling face met us and the other guests for breakfast. He said he was tired of the bordering countries' problems effecting Montenegro's tourism. The rain continued through the night and the next day so we stayed another night. Rajko had no rooms and offered his father's old communist condo at a super cheap price. Not wanting to stay in the tent we were game. It was clean, tidy, and how often do you get to do that, right? We left the next morning for Mojkovac, where we will start another hike. The bus dropped us halfway at a tall bridge looking down on the Tara River, the biggest canyon in Europe. With no bus schedule and only heresay from locals of a bus continuing to Mojkovac we got a cab. 10 Euros, 30 miles, and 4 cigarettes we made it. Like most roads here, we hugged the mountainside while looking down on the Tara River. This part of Europe reminds me of the US in the Eighties. When seat belts were optional and non-smoking restaurants were the norm. There is also no warning about talking on your phone while driving...a bus...on a curvy mountain road.
Susice Canyon
I'm glad there are universal symbols.
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