We figured if we were permanently off the trail or just taking a break, we would continue South. Bosnia Herzigovenia would be next hitting both large cities, Mostar and Sarajevo. Back to the bus station this morning. We weren't sure of the exact length of the trip and brought plenty of snacks. The route took us along the curvy coast road South. The bus hugged the cliffs looking down on the clear blue water. This area reminds us of Big Sur without the freezing cold and aggressive water of the Pacific. One small beach town after another with beautiful swimming areas.
The road turned inland and we crossed the border. It was was super easy. The bus driver took everyone's passports, went inside, came back out, delivered everyone's passports back, and we were off. As we drove into the town of Mostar, signs of the war are still visible. More than any we have seen so far. Buildings still In use but dotted with bullet holes. An erie a feeling came over me. My protected life has never been so close to something so crazy. My guard was up as we walked off the bus and down the street to our hostel (Elite Hostel). The owner greeted us and was so nice. She spent half an hour talking to us about the town, things to do, and how the war affected her and her family. Her father stayed behind and the rest of her family fled. Her father went missing and was never heard from again. Her husband also stayed in the city. He ran to the river to receive food air dropped by the US while snipers plucked citizens from rooftops.
She walked us to our room where we dropped our packs and headed out. The town is divided into old and new. The old part is beautiful and lined with street vendors selling items that reflect the culture. Turkish coffee pots, rugs, copper jewelry. One of the reasons we wanted to visit Bosnia Hertezgovnia is to experience a mix of cultures. Here Muslims, Christians, and Orthodox all live together. Instead of church bells, you hear the calming call the pray. Mosques and churches share the same street. People walk the streets wearing everything from a mini skirt to burkas.
The hostel owner recommended a local guide to show us the local area. Our day started with a hearty brunch of coffee, liquid yogurt, and Burke. Burke is normally made in a Dutch oven over charcoal. A yummy thin pastry stuffed with meat, cheese, or spinach then rolled in a spiral. The rest of the day included visiting, Kravice waterfalls, Pocitelj Fort and village built in the Ottoman Empire,around the 14th century, and the sniper tower in downtown. Before traveling here I said I would not spend time writing about details of the 1990's war here. It's unbelievably confusing, and too many sides of the story. The war ended 20 years ago and the country is rebuilding. That takes time. Bosnia is a safe place to visit and people are amazingly friendly. This is not a 2nd or 3rd world country. Some of my photos below are of the scars left in some parts of the city, which makes a powerful statement of how people can return, rebuild, and remember. One of the most powerful places we visited today was our last stop, the sniper tower. As the name describes, a sniper on an upper floor of a downtown building shot citizens as they went to work and lived their life. Now the building is closed, abandoned, yet still lurking. Graffiti artists are slowly expressing themselves here with powerful art. A block away our driver stops. He points to the building tells us to, "Walk to the back by the bushes, you will see stones where you can climb over the wall. Follow the path And climb the stairs to the top floor. Don't be scared. You will be fine." Then he drove off. Shadow and I looked at each other and started walking. We wanted an adventure right? Sure enough we found the stacked stones for us to climb the wall into the building. Industrial trash is everywhere. Broken windows, insulation, wiring. Only colorful concrete walls are left. A small path is cleared guiding you through the maze of rooms, and hallways, to a staircase. We admire the art and expression of people's feelings about the war. Art is a powerful thing. A solemn vibe takes over as we climb the exposed staircase up. Climbing passed condo windows where people live normally. Passed the same condo walls with bullet scars in the concrete. The top is an amazing view of the city. We are not alone. There is a constant small trickle of travelers doing the same. No one speaks. Everyone is deep in thought while looking out over the city. It's a powerful place.
Mother Nature fighting back.
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