Via Alpina Stage 18/17

I really had nothing to write about for Stage 18.  It was up and it was down.  On top was pretty, but nothing special and actually a little boring.  We did however stay at our first campground/RV park.  It was quiet and on a lake.  The campers are small here compared to the U.S.  Some had cute little wooden additions for a kitchen or den.  One had a U.S. flag flying but when we stopped by to say hi, they were gone.

Stage 17 however was a different story.  Today was by far the hardest climb we have ever done.  It started in a wide rock slide and ended 2,000 vertical feet up where the rock slide originated, in a chute.  I swear, if I had had any idea the climb would have ended like this, I would have turned back.  As a matter of fact, We would have just turned around and went back down, but it was too scary.  I truly have no idea how someone would have descended this.  Even sliding on your butt would be dangerous, because there was nothing to break your fall.  

Were there warning signs?  Yes. Two.  One was the lack of tissues on the trail.  Tissues are from day hikers that use the bathroom and leave them.  You find that in the U.S. too.  Everyone thinks tissues and toilet paper biodegrades faster than it actually does.  The second warning was an actual sign on the road walk reminding people of the emergency phone number 118 which is like our 911.  

Shadow and I were like spiders using our hands and feet to find stable rocks that were mixed into the scree (small sliding rocks).  It was pointless to use our hiking sticks.  We needed our hands to find hand holds in the rock.  I don't mind the scree, but I didn't like the steepness.  This was Shadow's worst nightmare.  We even had to stop because he was beginning to hyperventilate.  For 1 mile and 3:30hours we climbed.  No place to break, no lunch, and no running water.  It was hot and something neither of us want to do again.  The Via Alpina was described as a hiking trail.  This section was more of a rock climbing trail.  

The Montanaia Pass was thin and tiny which was expected.  We huddled close to eat a snack.  Shadow had run out of water and I didn't have much left so lunch would have to wait.  Besides, who could eat and peanut butter and jelly sandwich with nothing to drink.  2 hikers were climbing up from the other side.  Shadow tried to warn them, but they continued.  We choose to sidle to another pass with an easier trail down.  Another gentleman was coming up.  He asked if we had climbed this pass.  We said no and pointed to the pass we did climb and warned him.  He understood and decided on one we sidled to.  Our descent took us past the famous monolithic peak called Campanile of Montanaia.  It is known throughout the European rock-climbing community as the "Stone Shout".  Below was a washed out trail that followed a stream down the the Refugio.  This is where we met our last hiker.  He was coming up the scree to the rock-climbing area.  Drenched in sweat and in broken English he said, "First time.  Never More."  This was his first time here and he would never be back.  It was too dangerous.  We laughed after he passed thinking what he would have thought about the side we came up.  

It was a relief to not only make it to the hut, but that they had room for us to sleep.  A room with one set of bunks beds and a sink.  We sat outside and ordered two plates of pasta, and 2 desserts.  We were starving and thirsty.  About 30 minutes after we arrived the hiker that took a different pass down showed up.  Covered with sweat, he came up to us and said.  "Never again.  I thought I was going to die.  I will never hike here again."  We asked if he wanted to join us for a beer, but he had to go.  Needless to say we are exhausted and played Rock Paper Scissors to see who had to leave the bed and pay for our room.  I lost.

Campground 

Where we are headed.

Starting the worse part.

Almost there.

At the top.

Tired Mouse.

Where we came down.  Shelter for climbers.

Famous rock-climbing Rock.

We found water!

Made it to the hut!

A bed for the night.